Belle Époque · Rose Nursery Aalsmeer

Rose care

Everything you need to properly plant, prune, and care for your roses — from growers who do it themselves.

A rose does not stand alone but is part of the life in your garden. Biodiversity naturally protects against diseases. Healthy, strong plants are more resilient. A clean garden prevents the spread of infections. Roses require patience — a mature plant usually needs 2 to 3 years to show its full strength.

Plant guide

Rose plants

The right timing and technique make the difference between a struggling plant and a blooming rose.

Bare-root roses

November through February · preference: autumn

  1. Place the roots briefly in cold water (30–60 min) immediately after arrival.
  2. Dig a spacious planting hole — roots must not bend.
  3. Plant so deep that the graft union is 5 cm below the ground.
  4. Add 3–4 handfuls of garden soil and mix lightly.
  5. Firmly press the soil around the roots — no air pockets.
  6. Water generously after planting.
Do not water the planting hole beforehand — the soil will not adhere well to the roots.

Roses in a pot

All year round · not during frost

  1. Dig a planting hole at least 50 × 50 cm.
  2. Improve the soil with rose or potting soil.
  3. Carefully remove the pot — cut the sides if the root ball is stuck.
  4. Place the plant at the graft union height (5 cm below ground).
  5. Fill in, press firmly, water.
Ensure good drainage — roses hate standing water.

Pruning Guide

Pruning promotes blooming

Each type of rose requires its own approach. Always cut at an angle, just above an outward-facing bud.

Shrub Roses — Spring Pruning (mid-March)
  • Remove thin, diseased, or dead branches completely.
  • Keep 3 strong main branches — cut them back to 10–15 cm above the ground.
  • Always cut at an angle, just above an outward-facing bud.
  • Tea hybrids: prune back to ⅓ of the original height.
  • Floribundas: prune back to ½ of the height.
  • English roses & Rugosa: prune back to ⅓ of the height.
Climbing roses
  • Remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches.
  • Cut side shoots back to about 30 cm above the ground.
  • Leave strong, young shoots for the next bloom.
  • Tie loose branches to the support — preferably horizontally for more blooms.
Ramblers (once blooming)
  • Prune after the summer bloom — not in the spring.
  • Cut back the main branches to half their length.
  • Remove low-hanging shoots that touch the ground.
Summer pruning — after each bloom

Remove faded flowers just below the first five-leaf axil. This stimulates new buds and keeps the plant blooming. Applies to all repeat bloomers.

Autumn Pruning — Frost Preparation
  • Cut back to knee height (approx. 40–50 cm).
  • Cover the grafting point with at least 15 cm of loose soil or leaf compost.
  • Remove the protection in early spring during the spring pruning.

Common mistakes

Top 10 planting mistakes

Avoid these pitfalls and your roses will do the rest.

1

Roots not pre-soaked

Place bare-root roses in cold water for 30–60 minutes immediately after arrival. Dried-out roots are difficult to restore.

2

Wrong location

Roses need at least 5 hours of direct sunlight per day and good air circulation. Shade = weak plant and more fungus.

3

Planted too shallowly

The graft union (the swelling at the base of the stem) must be 5 cm below the ground. Too shallow = frost sensitivity and wild shoots.

4

Hole moistened

Do not do this — wet soil does not adhere well to the roots. Water generously only after planting.

5

High soil density

Keep the soil around the plant loose — raking it up promotes water absorption and root growth.

6

Not feeding or feeding too little

Roses are heavy feeders. Regularly fertilize with rose fertilizer starting in April — stop in August so the plant can go dormant.

7

Water leaves when wet

Water the soil, not the leaves. Wet leaves provide a breeding ground for powdery mildew and black spots.

8

Let diseased leaves hang

Remove affected leaves immediately and throw them in the trash — not in the compost. This stops the spread.

9

Do not prune after flowering

"Pruning encourages blooming." Remove faded flowers after each blooming cycle to stimulate new buds.

10

No frost protection

Cover the grafting point with at least 15 cm of loose soil before the first frost. Wrap climbing roses extra with burlap.

Rose year

Monthly calendar

What do you do when? An overview for the whole year.

Jan

Rust. Check frost protection. Order new roses in advance for the planting season.

Feb

Spring pruning as soon as the night frost has passed (mid-February to March). Remove covering material. Apply the first feeding.

Mar

Bare-root season in full swing. Plant new roses. First shoots appear — protect against late night frost.

Apr

Promote growth with rose fertilizer. Check for aphids. Water during dry periods.

May

First bloom! Remove faded flowers. Aphids active — spray with water or use natural control methods.

June

Second bloom wave after summer pruning. Continue feeding. Dry weather: water the soil daily.

July

Heat stress: water in the morning. Prune rambler roses after flowering. Apply summer fertilizer for the last time.

Aug

Stop using nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Third bloom is coming. Check for fungal diseases in wet weather.

Sep

Autumn bloom. Order bare-root roses for fall planting. The planting season starts from mid-September.

Oct

New rose plants. Autumn pruning: cut back to knee height. Remove fallen leaves (to prevent disease spread).

Nov

Best planting month for bare-root roses. Cover the graft union with 15 cm of soil in case of impending frost.

Dec

Check for rust and frost protection. Wrap climbing roses with burlap during severe frost. Plan for next season.

Winter Spring Summer Autumn

Diseases & pests

Recognize & address

Prevention is always better than cure. Healthy plants in a diverse garden are the best defense.

Fungal diseases

Powdery mildew

Identification: White/gray powdery coating on leaves and buds.
Cause: Poor air circulation, alternating wet-dry weather.
Approach: Remove affected leaves. Spray with a sodium bicarbonate solution or use a fungicide.

Black spot disease

Identification: Dark, star-shaped spots on the leaf — leaves fall off early.
Cause: Spores spread via rainwater on the leaf.
Approach: Water the soil. Remove affected leaves (do not compost). Use a copper-based treatment preventively.

Rust

Identification: Yellow-orange spots on the top of the leaf, orange/brown spore clusters on the underside.
Cause: High humidity and cool weather.
Approach: Remove affected leaves. Apply fungicide. Good air circulation helps prevent it.

Insects & pests

Aphids

Identification: Green or black aphids on young shoots and buds.
Approach: Spray vigorously with the garden hose. Plant lavender, allium, or geranium nearby — they attract natural enemies (ladybugs, lacewings). Severe infestation: use an insecticide based on pyrethrin.

Spider mites

Identification: Fine spider web on leaf, yellow-speckled leaf, silvery sheen.
Approach: Spray regularly — mites do not like moist leaves. Severe infestation: use a miticide (acaricide).

Rose beetles & caterpillars

Rose beetles: Remove by hand — they are slow early in the morning. Use an insecticide in case of severe infestation.
Caterpillars: Remove manually or use a biological agent based on Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).

Prevention is the best strategy

Plant chives, garlic, allium, or lavender around your roses. They attract ladybugs and lacewings that eat aphids. Water the soil, never the leaves. Healthy, strong plants—well planted, well fed—are naturally more resilient.

Another question?

We answer all your questions about roses, planting, and care. Send a message — we respond within 24–48 hours.