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Discover the best tips

All you need to know about planting, care and pruning

Roses are strong plants and caring for them is easier than you think. With a little extra attention, they bloom profusely all season long. Follow the advice of our rose experts for the best results.

Taking care of roses in general

A rose does not stand alone, but is part of life in your garden. 

  • Biodiversity in your garden is important. It contributes to a natural protection against diseases.
  • Healthy, strong plants are less susceptible to diseases and insects.
  • Roses like clean beds. Cut off diseased leaves and branches immediately and dispose of them in the container (instead of the compost heap).
  • Roses can suffer from a dry spring, but also from wet, cold, damp periods, especially in spring and summer.

It is often the same reasons why a rose does not live up to expectations. We have listed the top 10 most common mistakes for you so that it does not happen to you in any case.

  1. Do not immediately remove bare root roses from the plastic bag upon receipt, but wait until you plant them. Otherwise, you run the risk of the root drying out. Store the roses in the sealed bag in a cool place (for example on the floor in the storage room), so that they do not sprout. Roses in pots are immediately taken out of the box upon receipt. Give them a little water, they need this after the trip.
  2. Choose a good location and pay attention to sun and ventilation. Sun is essential for growth and flowering. Ventilation prevents diseases and fungi. 
  3. Plant a bare root rose sufficiently deep. The grafting point (the point at which the branch grows from the root) should be under the soil. 
  4. It is a natural reaction to pour water into the planting hole before planting the bare root. Don't do this though! The root then does not adhere sufficiently. Fill the hole around the root with rich soil, press it down firmly and pour water at the root last.
  5. Keep the soil airy after planting. Roses like an airy earth that can breathe.
  6. Feed regularly. The growth and flowering takes a lot of energy, a little extra nutrition gives results.
  7. Water regularly, but not too much. A rose that has just been planted needs water to take root. Pay extra attention to a dry spring. Water over the leaves instead of directly at the root. Moist leaves are extra sensitive to fungi. 
  8. Cut off diseased leaves immediately so that the problem cannot spread. Do not leave leaves lying around the plant, but throw them directly into the container.
  9. Prune immediately after flowering, all year round. With this you concentrate the energy of the plant on creating new flowers. Support with a handful of nutrition.
  10. Roses sensitive to frost. Therefore, protect roses in autumn and winter by covering the point where the branches come (the point of budding) under soil and leaves. Wrap stem roses with bubble wrap. Remove the protection in the spring at the first prune.

Problem: my rose does not give flowers

Possible causes:

  • too little sun
  • too little nutrition
  • drought in spring
  • frost damage
  • not pruned

Try to improve the above. Some roses do not give roses in the first year after planting, take good care of the rose and wait patiently for what nature offers for the second year. If the result is not forthcoming, consider having a soil analysis carried out by a specialized company.


Problem: burden of fungi and diseases

Possible causes:

  • insufficient ventilation 
  • too much moisture

Always ensure adequate ventilation and keep the area around the rose clean.


Problem: bothered by insects

Possible causes:

  • lack of biodiversity

Insects such as lice can be a nuisance, but are not life-threatening to a dandruff. Insects are invaluable for your garden. We therefore recommend looking at natural solutions such as planting allium, geranium (cranesbill) or marigold. Spray aphids from the leaves with the garden hose. 

What do you do at what time of year? We have made the overview for you.


  • March: spring pruning.
  • March to September: after the spring pruning in March, give the roses the first feeding. This stimulates growth and flowering. You repeat this until September.
  • Mid-May to early June: check the roses for curled leaves. These are larvae of the rose sawfly. Trim leaves that curl and discard the leaf in the container. 


  • Cut off spent flowers throughout the summer. This prevents the rose from forming hips and stimulates the growth of new flowers. Cut off the spur on which the flower grows at the next five-leaf.
  • Give the roses a handful of food after flowering. You repeat this until the month of September.


  • Bare root roses are best planted in mid-October when the soil is still warm. The rose can then take root for the winter. If you are planting later, protect the budding point by covering it with soil and leaves.
  • October is the best time to transplant roses.


  • Roses are sensitive to frost. For this reason, mound up the root of climbing and shrub roses at the grafting point with soil and leaves if you have not already done so in the fall. Remove it again in the spring when you start pruning. 
  • Standard roses are extra sensitive because the cultivation point above the soil is very susceptible to frost in all weathers. Protect a standard rose with a bag filled with straw and remove it again in the spring after the frost.

Planting roses

Planting a rose is easy, but it is of course important that you do it right. In this article we explain step-by-step how to plant roses. In the ground or in a decorative pot.

The best time is autumn, before the first frost. Then the soil is still relatively warm and as a result the roots may still form some hair roots so that the plants are 'fixed' for the winter. The roses will then develop better in spring than when you plant later. You may see results sooner in the first year. However, planting later in the year is just as possible. The range of varieties at the nursery is then often more limited (species can already be sold out) and the rose may start a little more slowly. You can plant roses that you buy in a pot all year round, as long as it doesn't freeze.


Choosing the right spot is very important to achieve the desired result. There are a number of points that you should pay attention to.

  1. Never plant a rose in the same spot where a rose once stood. If you still want this, first dig out the soil well and replace it with good soil from another place in the garden, supplemented with garden soil or rose manure.
  2. The vast majority of roses need at least 4 hours of sun per day. Roses do not grow and bloom well in shade. Therefore, always choose a sunny spot.
  3. Ventilation is important in the prevention of diseases and fungi. Therefore, choose a place where the wind blows through.
  4. Are you planting a climbing rose against a facade or fence? Then keep a sufficient distance from the wall so that the rose does not end up dry under a roof. And remember that the earth around the house is often poor. So make sure you have enough garden or rose soil.

Have you found a good place? Then follow the steps below.

  1. Only remove the roses from the packaging when you are going to plant them, so that they do not dry out.
  2. Loosen the soil well with the spade and dig a sufficiently large hole. The hole should be wide enough that the roots of the roots are exposed and not folded in half. For the depth it is important that large side shoots at the top of the root (this is called the grafting point) are about 5 cm below the ground.
  3. Dip the roots in the bucket or pour water over them so that they are well wet. So do not pour water into the planting hole.
  4. Hold the rose upright in the planting hole with one hand, the root under the bottom will probably be slightly crooked. With your other hand, add 3 to 4 hands of garden soil or rose soil.
    Fill the planting hole with the soil that came out of the hole and press it firmly. The rose is sufficiently deep when the point where the side shoots emerge is approximately 5 cm below the soil. For the record: you do not put extra fertilizer or peat in the planting hole. We only do fertilizers later.
  5. Water the rose generously and repeat this regularly in the event of drought, except when it is freezing.

Have you found a good place? Then follow the steps below.

  1. Make a large planting hole of at least 50×50 cm.
  2. Improve the soil by filling the hole with rose or garden soil, preferably organic. This keeps the soil around the roots fresh and maintains an active soil life. 
  3. Remove the rose from the plastic pot and place it in the planting hole with soil. Make sure that the root ball is not damaged. A handy way to prevent damage is to cut the pot open on two sides to the bottom and carefully remove the rose with root ball with both hands.
  4. Fill with soil and press firmly. 
  5. Water the rose generously and repeat this regularly in the event of drought, except when it is freezing.

A rose in a large pot on a patio can be very decorative. When choosing a decorative pot, pay particular attention to the depth of the pot. A rose stops growing when the roots reach the bottom. We recommend using a pot that is at least 45 centimeters deep. To prevent frost damage, line the inside of the pot with bubble wrap before adding the soil. For planting, follow the same steps as when planting a bare-root rose or potted rose. The use of good soil and nutrition is extra important.

To get a nice mature picture, plant 4 roses per m2. Some rose varieties form such large shrubs that 3 roses per m2 also look good.

We recommend planting 2 to 4 climbing roses per linear metre. Usually after about three years you will have a beautiful fully grown fence or wall.

We expect a lot from a rose. Nutrition gives the plant the push to grow and bloom. Feed a rose after its first pruning in spring and repeat after each bloom until September. You will find good organic rose food in our webshop.


follow this steps when pruning ramblers and climbing roses.

It is often complicated, but it is not difficult at all: pruning a rose. It is mainly a matter of daring and doing. You prune a rose to stimulate new flowering and to shape the plant. Pruning and feeding is often the best way to give a rose that is not doing so well a boost.


What do you need?

Good material is everything. Good pruning shears, gloves and rake are your friends.

  • To avoid diseases and frayed cuts it is important that you have a good secateurs that you only use for the roses. This is an investment that will last a lifetime if used properly. Disinfect the scissors with alcohol if necessary. 
  • Do you have to prune a lot then special gloves good protection against thorns. 
  • Immediately rake collect the branches and leaves that you have cut and loosen the soil. Collect everything and put it directly in the green bin, then diseases have no chance.  


When do you prune roses?

There are three periods for pruning roses: the spring, summer and autumn pruning.


Spring pruning in mid-March

In the spring you prune a rose to rejuvenate the plant and to create new shoots. It may sound a bit dramatic, but when you prune you create cuts. The plant is injured and vulnerable. That's why you don't prune a rose until the frost has passed, which is usually mid-March.

You cut the rose as follows. Thin twigs take energy away from the plant and don't look pretty, so cut them off completely. You do the same with dead wood and branches that grow together. Try to keep three nice sturdy branches. Cut this off at 10 to 15 centimeters above the ground. You will probably see small red eyes on the branches, these are the new shoots. Cut a main branch above an eye that points to the outside, then the branch will grow out nicely. Remember to always cut a branch diagonally.

With the spring pruning you immediately give the roses a handful of nutrition on top of the root. We like to use organic rose fertilizer. First loosen the soil a bit with a rake.


The summer pruning

Pruning makes it bloom. And that is why you always cut away the spent flowers. The lower you prune the branch, the more sturdiness the rose will become. This is why you cut the branch under the axil of the first five-leaf lateral branch. 

Continuous blooming roses will continue to produce new flowers in this way until autumn. Extra nutrition helps the rose with this. You can therefore continue to give a little food after each flowering during the summer until September. 

Sometimes you can see long, thin shoots growing at the root of the rose. These wild shoots draw energy and will not flower. So always cut them right off.

Tip: do you think it is a shame to cut off flowers that have not yet fully bloomed and are you pondering with pain in your heart? Then put them inside in a vase to enjoy them for a while. Cut the roses at different heights and combine different varieties. They finish flowering quite quickly but give a much more natural appearance than roses from the florist.


the autumn pruning

Not everyone prunes for the fall. After a summer of hard work, we don't always feel like it anymore. The reason for doing it is to bring back structure, protect the rose from winter and get more blooms in spring.

To protect the rose bush from winter, cut it back to knee height, not lower. It is wise to cover the plant with about 15 centimeters of soil for extra protection.

Roses and Diseases

Roses are strong, but like many other plants, they can be susceptible to insects and mold. 

The most common fungal infestations are mildew, sooty mold and rust. Mildew is the least harmful, although it doesn't look pretty. Sooty mold and rust are harmful. These fungi weaken the plants due to premature leaf drop. 

Remember that insects are an important part of nature. And that roses can also suffer from remedies. In our opinion, diseases and insects are part of it and can often be solved naturally.

Prevention is always better than cure. A lot is possible in a natural way. A healthy plant is less susceptible to disease. Good nutrition and fertilization is therefore important. Water young plants regularly during the first 2 years during drought. Remember never to spray over the leaves, but directly at the root. And don't spray the roses too late in the day so that the bush dries out before night and is therefore less susceptible to mold.

By creating more biodiversity in your garden, you increase the natural protection against insects. For example, plants that are related to the onion help against aphids. Plant chives, garlic between the roses. Allium is also a wonderful combination. Other well-known classics are lavender and clematis for climbing roses.

In case of lice, do not spray spirit soap on the dandruff. It is much better to maintain the natural balance. Lacewings and ladybugs eat a lot of lice, only these robbers come to you roses when there is something to eat. Dandruff will not be bothered by a few aphids, but if there are too many due to the lack of enemies, the garden hose is the means to solve this problem. Lice and a lot of cold water do not go together, the lice can be sprayed off the plant with the greatest of ease if you hold the top of the branch for a while. 

Leaf rollers are especially active on rose bushes near trees. They can completely disfigure a plant in a short time. The advice to pick and dispose of the curled leaves. The moment the presence of the leaf roller becomes visible, the damage has already been done, and the damage cannot be reversed. If you are desperate, you can consider fighting the larva that is in the curled leaves. There are many remedies available on the market to combat these infestations. Ask for advice before buying. 

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